Charlottetown: The Heart and Soul of PEI

	Aerial view of Charlottetown

HISTORY

Charlottetown was originally founded when its protected position at the junction of two rivers close to the Hillsborough Bay was considered an ideal area for settlement by a British crown surveyor in 1764. Named after England's Queen Charlotte, the area was quickly designated as the capital of what is now Prince Edward Island. As the centre of government on P.E.I., Charlottetown soon became the dominant town and voice of the province. Even today, the city is still the cultural and political heart of the island.

Charlottetown's influence has not just extended to provincial affairs, however. Known as the birthplace of Confederation, Charlottetown played host to a meeting of prominent politicians in 1864. The Charlottetown Conference, which discussed the unification of several provinces, was a success, and in 1867, the Dominion of Canada was founded. In 1992, all eyes in Canada turned to Charlottetown again when the Charlottetown Accord, which would have granted Canada's provinces more autonomy and given Quebec special status, was drafted here by the federal government. The highly unpopular accord was defeated in a countrywide referendum and lead to an election that saw the reigning party defeated.

CLIMATE

Although known in myth for receiving large amounts of snow, Prince Edward Island in fact boasts some of the gentlest temperatures in Canada. Never too hot in the summer, never too cold in winter, Charlottetown's temperature is moderated by its oceanside location. Temperatures range from -3°C to -11°C (26°F to 11°F) in winter, and average in the 20s and occasionally the low 30s (70s to 90s) during the summer. While July and August are the driest months, rain is frequent in the Atlantic provinces, so packing an umbrella is often useful.

GETTING THERE AND GETTING AROUND

There is very little public transportation on Prince Edward Island and Charlottetown is no exception, as its transit service only runs from approximately 9:30am to 2:30pm, Monday through Friday. No great skill is required when driving in Charlottetown as the streets are rarely crowded and parking is plentiful and cheap. Do keep in mind, however, that the city has several areas that are car-free; it's far easier to just walk, especially since most places of interest are located within close distance of each other and the city is safe even at night.

To get to Charlottetown from outside of P.E.I., there are several different options available. The Confederation Bridge joining P.E.I. to New Brunswick provides a dramatic route for motor vehicles, and is approximately 56 km (35 mi) away from Charlottetown. From Nova Scotia, take the Northumberland Car Ferry to Wood Islands, P.E.I. or fly in from Halifax. There are also regular flights through Air Canada from Toronto, Ontario, and there are several discount providers that also offer flights from cities including Toronto, Montreal, Quebec and Detroit, Michigan, U.S.A., during the summer months. The Charlottetown Airport is located approximately 8 km (5 mi) from the city.

ACCOMMODATIONS

Accommodations in Charlottetown vary extensively, and many are only open during the incredibly busy summer. As such, it's useful to book a room before arriving. From massive four-star chain hotels to tiny, shared-bathroom bed and breakfasts, Charlottetown has every type of accommodation, and many have harbour view rooms or are located in the city's original buildings. Rates in Charlottetown are relatively inexpensive, and there is something to fit every budget and taste, although prices fluctuate wildly between seasons and even within the same category of lodging. Accommodations are located throughout the city, including residential areas, with the majority clustered around downtown Charlottetown and the TransCanada Highway.

EVENTS AND FESTIVALS

During its lifetime, Charlottetown has raised the ability to celebrate to an art form. This is a city of celebrations, and it seems that only a few weeks can go by before another ceilidh (dance or party) or festival occurs to the delight of locals and visitors. There is always an event of some type occurring, especially during the summer months.

At the end of summer, the Festival of the Fathers occurs, which celebrates the Charlottetown Conference with re-enactments, interactive historical events, an historic gala ball and a pub crawl. The Festival of Lights meanwhile, is a three-day, four-night celebration of Canada Day, which includes top musicians from Canada and throughout the world, a massive fireworks display, a midway and a children's village. There is also the P.E.I International Shellfish Festival, which is not to be missed by those who love seafood. The three day event, which includes local music, chowder competitions and oyster-shucking championships, is considered the largest kitchen party on the Island. Recently, the Jack Frost Children's WinterFest has joined the Charlottetown lineup of festivals. This event features a massive ice castle, ice sculpting competitions, children's stage and music shows.

The most famous of all these festivals, parties and celebrations is the Charlottetown Festival, a two-month long celebration of the performing arts. Located in and around the Confederation Centre of the Arts, the festival is best known for its yearly run of Anne of Green Gables: The Musical. This play tells the heartwarming story of P.E.I.'s most famous resident, red-haired Anne Shirley, and attracts thousands of visitors to the Island each summer.

ATTRACTIONS AND ACTIVITIES

Historical Attractions

	Charlottetown's War Veterans Memorial and Province House

As a capital city, Charlottetown has plenty of attractions. Exploring the city's past at its many historical sites could take days; Founder's Hall, Province House, Fanningbank, Beaconsfield House and many other buildings in the area each represent aspects of P.E.I.'s history. Province House, where the Charlottetown Conference was held and the current legislature sits is especially interesting. Guided tours and re-enactments of the conference occur throughout the summer. Founder's Hall is a new attraction that is situated in a 1906 railway depot and is home to an interactive, multi-media self-guided tour of Canadian history since confederation, with special emphasis on P.E.I.'s role.

For those who like their architecture, there are many historical examples, from Victorian, lemon-yellow Beaconsfield House, to gothic St. Dustan's Basilica, to the mid 19th-century grandeur of Province House. There are also several squares (Hillsborough, Kings, Rochford and Connaught) that were part of the original city where many fine mansions (some of them now bed and breakfasts) can be found.

Exploring on Foot
The city is laid out easily for walking. Between the original city's boundaries of Euston and Water Streets are major thoroughfares where most of Charlottetown's attractions and entertainment can be found. A large proportion of these streets lead to the harbour, where a boardwalk runs through several parks and past many of Charlottetown's best and favourite shops and restaurants, including those of the popular Peake's Wharf. Walking tours of the city are also available through Founder's Hall, which provides a costumed guide to show visitors the sights and impart knowledge (and gossip) about Charlottetown's early days.

Shopping
Although not to be compared with New York City, Paris, London or even Toronto, Charlottetown has the market covered when it comes to one-of-a-kind cottage-industry style shops. From organic, P.E.I.-ingredient-made soaps and P.E.I. Dirt Shirts to stained glass windows and handmade furniture, Charlottetown's shops can sate the crafter within while providing a wealth of souvenirs and gifts to take home. A large proportion of these smaller stores can be found around the harbour and on Queens Street and Victoria Row, while more traditional shops and chains are well represented at Charlottetown's malls, Confederation Court Mall, and the Charlottetown Mall. P.E.I.'s ten percent Provincial Sales Tax (PST) applies to all non-essential goods (clothing, food and shoes are exempt), and is applied at the till along with the Canada-wide seven percent Government Sales Tax (GST).

Arts
Charlottetown's arts community, although not large, is well represented at many venues in town. Galleries specializing in the art of P.E.I. abound, and local paintings, crafts and prints are to be found throughout the city, including at the P.E.I. Gallery in the Guild, an artist-owned print gallery which offers visitors introductory lessons and access to the workrooms.

There are always plays occurring in Charlottetown; while most of these can be found throughout the year at the Confederation Centre of the Arts, two dinner theatres, a comedy sketch troupe and an outdoor Shakespearian theatre also operate during the summer. Several movie theatres reside in Charlottetown, including one that specializes in local, independent and art films, and live music and local bands can always be found in one of the city's many bars and clubs.

P.E.I. writers are also well represented in Charlottetown. Several bookstores specialize in local authors and hold readings, discussion groups and signings around these authors' works.

	Walk or bike Confederation Trail

Outdoor Activities
Charlottetown has an abundance of natural attractions both within and just outside the city that provide plenty of recreational opportunities. There are many parks and green spaces where trails as well as tennis, basketball and volleyball courts can be found. Water sports are very popular in Charlottetown, and it is easy to experience sea kayaking, scuba diving or sailing in the area due to the large number of shops offering instruction and equipment. Several golf courses are located just outside of Charlottetown as is Confederation Trail, which provides ample opportunities for walking, birdwatching, bicycling or snowmobiling as it winds past the city. There are also several outdoors tour organizations operating out of Charlottetown, and fishing and hunting trips and tours of the area by boat, airplane and bicycle are all available. Seal watching is also a popular activity, and many boat tours out of the harbour offer visitors a chance to see seals at play in their natural habitat.

Dining
There is a wide range of dining options available in Charlottetown that cater to a variety of tastes. From mom and pop diners to seafood bars, fine dining rooms to a cornucopia of ethnic eateries, Charlottetown offers every type of dining experience. Food can also be found at many bars, and also at a number of the city's independent coffee shops. The majority of restaurants are found in Old Charlottetown, with a large proportion either located on University Avenue or down by the harbour.

Nightlife
Charlottetown has a decent nightlife, and as benefits the home of the University of Prince Edward Island, Holland College and several commercial colleges, there are a slew of bars and restaurants that stay open until all hours of the morning. Favourite bars for locals are the Olde Dublin Pub, where live Irish music, sing-alongs and plenty of Guinness may be found, and Peake' s Quay, a restaurant and bar that transforms into a club complete with drink specials and the occasional live act during summer. Two other highly popular locales are Myron's and Breakers, the first a dance club that sees a number of top musical acts, and the latter a billiards and drinks place where university students can be found. A weekly entertainment during the summer is the Friday Night Ceilidhs at Irish Hall, where locals and visitors gather to listen and dance to traditional Gaelic music.